Refinance Calculator

Enter your current loan and a new rate or term to see your new payment, monthly savings, break-even month on closing costs, and total lifetime interest saved — or lost.

How this refinance calculator works

Enter your remaining loan balance, your current rate and remaining term, then the new rate and term you're offered, plus the closing costs to refinance. The calculator runs the same amortization math used across BriskToolbox to find your current payment and your new payment, then reports the numbers that actually matter for the decision: how much you save each month, how many months it takes for that saving to repay the closing costs (break-even), how much interest you save (or lose) over the life of the loan, and the net result once closing costs are subtracted.

Break-even, explained

Refinancing isn't free — you pay closing costs to get the new loan. Break-even is simply closing costs ÷ monthly savings: the number of months of lower payments it takes to recover what you spent. If your monthly savings is $292.54 and closing costs are $6,000, break-even is 6,000 ÷ 292.54 ≈ 20.5 months, which this calculator rounds up to 21 months — the first full month you're ahead. If you plan to stay in the home (or keep the loan) longer than the break-even period, the refinance is generally worth it on cost grounds; if you might sell or refinance again sooner, the closing costs may never fully pay for themselves.

A worked example

Say you have a $300,000 balance on a 30-year mortgage at 7.0%, with the full 30 years (360 months) remaining, and you're offered a refinance at 5.5% for the same 360-month term, with $6,000 in closing costs. Your current payment is $1,995.91/month; the new payment is $1,703.37/month — a saving of $292.54 every month. Break-even on the $6,000 in costs lands at 21 months, well under two years. Run the full remaining schedule and the interest still owed under the old loan is about $418,527, versus about $313,212 under the new one — a lifetime interest saving of roughly $105,315, or $99,315 once the $6,000 in closing costs is subtracted. That net figure, not the monthly payment, is the real answer to "is this refinance worth it."

Current loanNew loan
Rate7.0%5.5%
Remaining term360 months360 months
Monthly payment$1,995.91$1,703.37
Remaining interest$418,526.69$313,212.12
Same $300,000 balance, same 360-month term, rate drops from 7.0% to 5.5%. Closing costs of $6,000 not yet subtracted.

When refinancing does — and doesn't — make sense

Refinancing tends to make the most sense when the new rate is meaningfully lower than your current one, you plan to keep the loan past the break-even point, and you keep the new term at or below your remaining term so you're not restarting the amortization clock. It tends to make less sense when the rate improvement is small, you expect to move or pay off the loan soon, or the only way the payment drops is by stretching the term back out — which is where the numbers can quietly work against you even though the headline payment looks better.

The longer-term trap

Here's the case worth watching closely. Say you're 10 years into a $300,000 loan at 7% (120 months, $3,483.25 remaining monthly payment) and you refinance into a brand-new 30-year loan at a lower 6.5% rate, paying $3,000 in closing costs. Your payment drops enormously — $1,896.20/month, a saving of $1,587.05 — and break-even arrives almost immediately, in about 2 months. It looks like an easy win. But because the new loan resets the clock to a full 30 years, the interest still owed under the old 10-year payoff was only about $117,991, while the new 30-year loan will cost about $382,633 in interest — a lifetime interest increase of roughly $264,643, and a net loss of about $267,643 once closing costs are included. The lower payment was real, but it came from spreading the same balance over 20 extra years, not from the rate improvement alone.

Key takeaway: always check the break-even, lifetime-interest and net-savings figures together — a big drop in the monthly payment can still be a bad deal if it comes from resetting a shorter remaining term back to a long new one. This calculator flags that case whenever your new term is longer than your remaining term.

What counts as closing costs

Closing costs typically include the lender's origination and application fees, an appraisal, title search and title insurance, recording fees, and any discount points you choose to pay to buy the rate down further. Your Loan Estimate will itemize all of these — add them up for the "closing costs" figure above. Rolling closing costs into the new loan balance instead of paying them upfront changes the math slightly (you'd finance a bit more than your current balance); this calculator assumes you're comparing against your exact current balance, so add rolled-in costs to the balance if that's your plan.

Frequently asked questions

How is refinance break-even calculated?

Break-even is your closing costs divided by your monthly savings: the number of months of lower payments it takes to recoup what you paid to refinance. If your new payment isn't actually lower, there's no break-even point — refinancing costs you money every month with no payback.

Does a lower monthly payment always mean I'm saving money?

No. If the new loan resets your term back to a longer payoff period — say you refinance with 10 years left into a new 30-year loan — the monthly payment usually drops a lot, but you can end up paying far more total interest over the new, longer term. Always compare lifetime interest and net savings after closing costs, not just the payment.

What closing costs should I include?

Include everything the lender charges to originate the new loan: application and origination fees, appraisal, title insurance and search, recording fees, and any discount points you pay to buy down the rate. Your Loan Estimate document lists these; add them all together for the closing-costs figure.

What's a good break-even period for a refinance?

There's no universal number, but a common rule of thumb is that a break-even under 2–3 years is comfortable if you plan to stay in the home well beyond that. If you might move or refinance again before you hit break-even, the closing costs may never pay for themselves.

How much does dropping the interest rate actually save?

It depends on your remaining balance, remaining term, and how much the rate drops — this calculator runs the exact numbers for your situation. As a reference point, dropping a $300,000, 30-year balance from 7.0% to 5.5% (same term) cuts the payment by a few hundred dollars a month and over $100,000 in lifetime interest, before closing costs.

Should I refinance into the same remaining term or a fresh new one?

Keeping roughly the same remaining term (or shorter) usually captures the most interest savings from a lower rate, since you're not restarting the amortization clock. Refinancing into a fresh 30-year term lowers the monthly payment the most but can increase total interest paid — model both and compare the lifetime-interest and net-savings figures, not just the payment.

Last updated: July 2026 · How we calculate

BriskToolbox provides estimates for general information only and is not financial advice. Confirm exact figures, fees and rates with your lender before refinancing.